Thursday, August 20, 2009

Day 3 of my trek... still in Jyotirmath... 4am tea, 5 am breakfast, 5: 30 orientation walk into the Army base followed by a few basic exercises...
Then came the main agenda for the day. We took the rope-way to Auli at about 9 am. The skies were clear and the sun shining but as we ascended into the skies teh clouds came in to play spoilsport. Auli is a smallish ski resort above Jyotirmath which really comes alive in the winters. This winter the South Asian Winter Games are scheduled to be held here and preparations were in progress. Auli is from where Jyotirmath derives its water supply. The Government, in its omniscience, chose to ignore the warnings of the environmentalists and last year try to create stepped slopes here for skiing. A few months ago a huge and long foreseen landslide wiped away all the stepped slopes that had been created and in addition to that also cut off the water supply to Jyotirmath. Even after 3 months of the incident Jyotirmath is still facing acute water shortage.

As we approached Auli the lush forests of Golden Oaks hove into view, the weather cleared up and we could see broad swathes of sunlight and shadows colouring the distant verdant hills...




After about 45 minutes we reached Auli, no wonder this is the longest rope-way in Asia...






Here there is a smallish Cafe serving the most basic of refreshments at a horribly bloated price...



Although it was quite bright here the peaks in the distance were still cloud covered, only for a moment did we catch a glimpse of Mt Dronagiri...



Immeasurably distant and yet clear to the sight, something strange about mountains, far away yet appearing so approachable...



The glaciers on the face of the mountain shone like veins of silver in dark stone..



The Hathi-Ghora-Palki was visible for a moment too...





And there were more clouds, we saw neither Nanda Devi nor Kamet.

Our trail led us through the moss and fern covered forests of Golden Oaks. The trees were the most majestic, most aesthetically satisfying I have ever seen. And strangely enough all uniform in their common species, but also varied in their individual caprices. The light filtering through was golden-green, speckled with flame, a dancing iridescence. I always imagined the light of Fangorn in the youth of the world to be this vibrant.



The path was covered in fallen leaves, a brown warm carpet... I could barely hear footsteps. A silent, inward looking hike through a quiet place of the earth; it was like being in church.



On the way we stopped at a small mountain temple for our lunch. A quaint little structure, with a quainter deity, probably one of the many gods who make their homes in these hills and meadows, worshiped in their lonely temples by nomads and herdsmen...



Tibetan prayer flags protect the Hindu temple...



The many bells of Tautiyal Devata...



We were climbing to Gerson Top, a meadow above the tree-line. The forest suddenly give way in a neat boundary and we suddenly emerged in a meadow green with lush grass and blooming with flowers.



Clouds all around us, the weather changed here every 10 minutes. One moment sunny and the the other gloomy and dark. The visibility was rarely good, often not more than 20 ft. The golden Oak forests were now behind us...



And around us...



A little pool of rainwater appeared enchanted, like the pool of Narcissus or maybe the waters of Galadriel...



And where there is grass and rainwater, you have herds...



Flowers bloomed all around us...




Bees clustered around blue primulas...



A red flower shone like a beacon in the never ending green...



And my favourite flowers, Forget-me-nots.... they could brighten any gloomy day...




White Anemones with delicate purple undersides....



A Himalayan Marigold...



These flowers wafted a faint smell of incense, later I learnt they are what incense is made of...



The way back, we walked silent and cold, slightly wet from the drizzle, leaving the meadows behind...



Into the forests again, we turned back in awe, for a last look at what we were leaving behind....



As we reached Auli again, we sat down on the grass to watch the clouds play on the distant peaks.



If you are going to Auli sometime next year maybe all this would have been gone... The forests we walked through, all the trees are numbered and scheduled to be felled in a few more days, the government is planning an ambitious ski resort on the land. At a time when we need such quiet places of contemplation, this destruction to wantonly make way for a pleasure resort seems hare-brained idea to me. Anyways, it will all come to naught. The amount of snow falling in Auli has been decreasing steadily year by year; last year there was hardly any snow here, barely patches of 10 to 20 feet in length for skiing. Lets hope sense prevails...

Wednesday, August 19, 2009



It has almost been a year since I last wrote here... Now I have little time and even lesser inclination to keep writing a blog, but there is this popular pressure to find a place to upload and share my pictures, mainly... and I think this would be as good a place as any to do that...

Last week I was traveling in the Garhwal region of the Indian state of Uttara-Khand, and these pictures were clicked at different stages of my journey... Inshallah, I shall find some time to write about my travels as well... but as for today, I have the pictures I took in the temple town of Jyotirmath. Most of the pictures that follow are of the Nrisingha Swamy temple (or so I think it was called), an impressive stone structure; interesting for its purity of form and immensely atmospheric setting amidst the surrounding Shivalik ranges. The priests claimed that the temple was established by Adi Shankara in the seventh century, the same time when he established this town as his Uttarāmnāya (Northern) math. The images of the deities were surprisingly beautiful, exuding an aura of great antiquity and at the same time appearing as a culmination of an artistic style prevalent in the temples of Garhwal... Such grace, as seen in the statue of Shiva with Parvati for instance, I have only ever seen in the Chola Bronzes in Tanjore...

Enough talk... now for the pictures...

We begin with a few shots of the temple...







Garuda stands guard at the temple door...




The temple ramparts...




Hara Parvati...



Narayan with Sankarshan to the side...



Chandi...




The Nine Planets....



Vinayaka....




Jyotirmath is indeed a magical place; neither as crowded nor as afflicted with spiritual overkill as Haridwar or Rishikesh, the spiritual power of the place seems palpable, fresh here... like a thin film the spirit covers all things mundane and makes it shine and drip with madhu... madhu vata ritayate, madhu ksharanti sindhavah, madhvirna santwosadhi... Madhu-Vidya... the doctrine of the honey, the doctrine of the secret delight that is the sheen of the world and all worldly goods, that honey, that delight is suddenly palpable here...

A little higher up from this delightful little temple happens to be the modern structure of the Shankaracharya Math... No photographs could be taken in here, maybe when I shall return here again... The place is of little architectural or artistic import but it does encompass a cave in which it is believed Adi Shankara transmitted the doctrine to Trotakacharya... The cave has an amber Shivalinga, a most astonishing piece of amber, if only for its sheer size, quite as large as two palms of a full grown man; this happens to be worshiped here as ChandraMoulishwara. Outside is the temple of the Shakti, Rajrajeshwari TripuraSundari. The priest is a young man of maybe 23 years or so by the name of Acharya Manoj Kumar Pandeya... a delight to talk to and exuding an air of belief that is rarely seen in hindu priests... The place is miraculously deserted, the temple nestles in the bosom of the hills, the conch sounds for Sandhya. Sandhya is sandhi, the yoking together of two times, two lights, the rent in the fabric of the world; through this rent we seek to reach the heavens, to that light beyond, to those waters of knowledge, to the apah... With Vedic chants he envokes Rudra and his Shakti, with ritual gestures and with the simplest of implements: a little water, a conch shell, a handful of rice grains, some vermilion, and fire... and the vehicle of the words, syllables and meters of ancient poetry in a forgotten tongue, he makes the vehicle on which will ride our intentions, on which our intentions reach the land beyond... I feel drawn back there again as I speak of it... nothing changed perceptibly, nothing at all, there was just a small shift in my perspective, just for a moment, as if a curtain had been blown aside in the wind for a moment and I caught a glimpse of something beyond through the rent... It is the closest i have been to magic...

Then the doors of the cave were shut. In the gloom the priest approached the Shiva Linga with a burning brand. The lamp was placed right behind the amber Linga. For few moments the stone walls of the cave were bathed in a soft silver glow... Chandramoulishwar seemed to be on fire, a second moon glowing with a silver glow... and in the bosom of the transparent god I saw the fossilized remains of a long dead dragonfly....


A few more pictures of Jyotirmath follow...



Pine forests dot the hills...



The Alaknanda flows on through a gorge into the Tehri Hydel Power Project below. I perceived a lot of popular anger at the rampant construction of dams...



The clouds come in...